Northbound By Foot
An Appalachian Thru HikeArchive for April, 2011
4-28-11 Mail Call
Big Bald Shelter to Erwin, TN: 16 miles
What a crazy storm last night. I’m sure by now most of you have heard about the tornados and all of the destruction that has come with them. We heard on the radio that we were in for a treat as it was a 90% chance of thunder storms and we were also in a tornado warning. Around midnight the rain crashed down on the hard tin roof of the shelter. Not long after that the winds picked up and actually pulled the roof off a bit and then slammed it back down. Needless to say we didn’t exactly have a full night rest.
Either way I knew that we were supposed to have good weather today and as I walked down the path of riotousness I could see the clouds breaking and the promising blue skies spotting through. I had enough battery on my phone so I figured I would listen some music as I walked. It’s crazy how some good tunes and clear blue skies can really brighten your mood and turn a gloomy day into a day not to be forgotten. So I knew it was going to be a good day, but what I didn’t know was that it was going to be a fantastic day.
We decided to walk all the way into Erwin and then just camp on the trail somewhere before going into town on Friday for our day of rest. We ended stopping by the outfitter to pick up a few sodas or pops for the Michiganders out there. They already had the package that Joe and Marie Lawson sent us so we had to open it and see what was in this bad boy. Let me tell you I was a little skeptical when the guy called me back to grab it because it was big and heavy. These are two attributes that a hiker does not want to hear. When we opened the box up it was like Christmas and it was full of greatness. Joe had previously informed me that they sent a lot and we may have to share with other hikers. However, he may have underestimated my appetite and my unwillingness to let food out of my grasps. Joe, I would have sat there and eaten everything that I couldn’t carry or fit in my food bag. Thank you so much to the both of you for sending this food and whiskey!!! You guys are awesome no matter what Charlotte says about you. Jk.
Sleeping like a hobo tonight just out of town by the train tracks. By my count we have had about 5 trains already so it should be another interesting night. I just don’t know what I angling to do in a quite hotel room tomorrow. Maybe each of you can take turns calling my phone every 5 minutes. Either way it was a great day on the trail. Loving Life.
Here’s a picture of Chutes trying to catch the train!
4-27-11 Big Bald
Flint Mt to Bald Mt Shelter: 19 miles
All these long days and it’s no wonder my feet hurt. Maybe one of these days the blisters will go away and the hurting will only be occasional. Today’s hike was not too bad until we hit the 15 mile mark and we had a ridiculous climb up to big bald. It’s funny how disheartening it can be when you can see the mountain that you are about to climb in the distance. There was no mistaking this mountain to be big bald.
The climb was long and hard, but the views were quite spectacular. The wind was howling and just about knocked you right off your feet. After a short break we heading to the shelter and we were glad that there were a few spots left. It’s a cold and windy night, although hot chocolate and good company made it a nice one. Gravity brought out his guitar and him and Coyote played a few songs by the fire. We will be in The bustling city of Erwin, TN in two days. I have been spending a lot of time thinking about the pizza that I am going to get there. My love of food makes this adventure that much harder. Well, the sun is down and I am ready for dreams of indulgence. Here is a pic of the big bald shelter crew. Loving Life.
From the left: Gravity, Four Beards, Fish Hat, Coyote, El Flaco, Chutes and Mr. Poppins.
4-26-11 Donde Esta El Pollo?
Random Campsite to Flint Mt Shelter: 20 miles
At some point the trail magic becomes somewhat detrimental as your food bag ceases to get any smaller. I suppose this is really not something you can complain about nor am I about to turn any trial magic down. We arrived at a trail crossing that stated there was trail magic at a cabin down the road and boy was there. We were greeted by Far and Hercules who invited us in and forced us to drink juice and coffee while we waited for our Belgium waffles to cook up. Now I have been talking about getting chicken and waffles since we started this hike and now I had the waffle. And it was a darn good one at that. We then were forced to eat sausage stew as well as had a choice of 6 deserts of which I chose a caramel brownie topped with vanilla ice cream, whipped cream and a cherrie. Yes, this was for breakfast. As we ate desert Hercules and Far provided us with some religious books that we could choose to take if we wanted as well as provided us with their beliefs. I cannot thank the both of them enough for their generosity and kindness. And to believe that they do this from 7:30 to 5:30 and almost everyday for two months in the spring and 6 weeks in the fall. I did choose to take a book by the way and it is called “More Than a Carpenter.” I figure it can only broaden my horizons as I am on this journey.
The rest of the day was a combination of a quick pace and a variety of trial. We hit a section of exposed ruffling that involved us climbing over rocks for about a mile. It made way for beautiful views of the North Carolina mountains and the Tennessee flat lands, but it also destroyed our feet. By the end of the 20 mile day my feet and knees were begging to take a break and so I gave them a 10 minute soak in an ice cold mountain stream. It was a tough but rewarding day. It had it’s ups and downs! I know it was really for corny but I have to get my entertainment somehow…
As always. Loving Life.
Snackin’ and Far
4-25-11 The Heat Is On
Hot Springs to Random Campsite: 12 miles
83 degrees today brought on some quality sweat and the gnats. We grabbed some breakfast at the diner this morning and then hit the trail around 10:30. We did weight our packs first and with 5 days of food we both were right around 36 pounds. I guess its the price you pay for eating a ton of food. The beauty of carrying 15 pounds of food is that it only gets lighter and so after a few sharp climbs we began to eat. I would strongly urge everyone to go out and buy a bottle of nutella tomorrow. I forgot just how delicious that stuff really is. Lunch consisted or a tortilla with peanut butter, nutella and trail mix. Fantastic!
The rest of the day went by rather quickly and the bugs were still out so we found a nice campsite that already had some wood stockpiled. Once the fire was going good the bugs cleared out and we were set to relax for the afternoon. Nothing feels better than to throw up the hammock and lounge under the tall oaks as the warm breeze passes underneath you. Ahhhh. A few hours by the fire with good company and it was time for bed. Looks like rain tomorrow and Wednesday so expect happy, fun-filled posts. Until tomorrow. Loving life.
4-24-11 Hott Springs!
How about a nero and a zero in Hot Springs, NC? Just what the doctor ordered for sore legs and feet. For anyone that doesn’t know a zero is when you take a day off from the trail and a nero is when you only hike a few miles in or out of town. We so happened to hike 13 miles into town which is hardly a nero, but we dis it in 5 hours and got there by 1 pm so call it what you will.
Hot Springs is a one road town, but they have just about everything one would need on a zero day; food and beer. That’s exactly what we indulged in as we hit three different restaurants and guzzled many beers. Today we even hit the hot springs which are now just hot tubs by the river that are filled with mineral water from the springs. After an hour soak we were quite relaxed and ready for some more food.
Looking for a delicious burger for dinner and we’ll be ready to hit the trail again tomorrow. Loving life.
4-22-11 Loving Life
Deep Gap Shelter to Walnut Mt Shelter: 13 miles
This is going to be the hardest post yet and not because today was mundane hiking or because I’m exhausted or even because today brought trying weather. Today was quite the opposite. Instead today brought the kindness and giving that would bring a tear to ones eye. It is due to all this beauty today that will make this post truly arduous to encapsulate everything. I will do my best and attempt to not be long winded.
We started the day with an outlook of possible thunder storms and as the rain fell in the morning it was proving true. We had little hope for a beautiful day until we approached 3 miles and Brown gap. A gentleman greeted us at a dirt road and asked what we wanted for breakfast. This was Ox. We asked what do you have and so we started with a banana, an orange, some grapes, coffee, orange juice and two mountain dews. Ox then made us eggs with onions, tomato, peppers and cheese. He also informed us that a group of them from Tennessee have been doing this on the third weekend in April for the past 20 years. We said “looks like were staying for lunch”. About an hour later we each had two hamburgers, another mountain dew, about 20 cookies of different varieties and some more fruit. It took about another 20 minutes to move and work up the courage to attempt the next 5 mile climb up max patch.
While burping up this assortment of foods we climbed and arrived on top of max patch. True beauty. I encourage everyone to visit this amazing place at some point in their lives. Max patch is a mountain that is completely covered in grass with endless views in all directions. As we sat there taking in the sights for about two hours two fellas from east Carolina university hiked up and offered us oranges, juice, cookies and Easter candy. We of coarse partook in such kindness.
As we layed there fat and happy we see something else climbing the mountain in the distance. Its a cow with a donkey in tow. Now I know we are stuffed with food, delirious and high on life, but could this really be. It was. They walked right up to us and even let us pet them. (Pictures to come tomorrow). I forgot to mention that by now the clouds have passed and the warm sun was shinning down.
With Easter right around the corner it is impossible to not feel truly blessed. The generosity of people leaves me at a loss for words. I want to thank everyone that has supported us and stood behind us as we embarked on this crazy adventure. Loving life.
4-21-11 Walking Into Deliverance
Crosby Knob Shelter to Deep Gap: 18 miles
Apparently when you see mice running across the roof before you go to bed you should take extra precautions. The normal action would be to hang a rope from the roof and about half way down you attach a can or cut off top of a Gatorade bottle. This was the mouse can’t climb down the rope onto your bag. I, unfortunately, did not do this and a mouse chewed a hole through my hip pocket where I keep my snacks during the day. Oh well. I have come to terms with the mice. I know they are there and they are never crawling on top of me as far as I know, so therefore we live as one.
After my mouse realization we hit the trail and pushed a good pace in the cold drizzle and mist. It was the smokies in full force as you could only see 10 feet ahead of you. After 10 miles we came to a dirt road where there was supposed to be a hostel with supplies. We were told to make a left on the dirt road and go 200 yards until you see a barn. Hmmmm. Do we really want to do this? There’s food there right? Ok, were in then. The hostel was called standing bear and was actually pretty cool. I grabbed two days of food and snacks as well as three breakfast burritos and a breakfast biscuit. You paid up on the honor system and then there was a kitchen in another side hut by the courtyard. I devoured all these breakfast items for lunch and then hit the trail again for a 5 mile climb. Bad idea.
I made it through the climb and got to a campsite where we set up our “mobile” homes. Poppins started a fire and it ended up being Chutes, Dutch, Neat Hawk, Poncho and myself cooking around the glowing blaze. I decided to heat some chocolate donuts on a stick over the fire and wash them down with hot chocolate n’ whiskey. It pains me to say, but this was also a bad idea because now I have a killer stomach ache. I guess its a small price to pay for deliciousness. For now I am retired to my hammock to await another day.
4-20-11 An Unexpected Treat
Peck’s Corner Shelter to Cosby’s Knob Shelter: 13 miles
After a long day and a good nights rest in the hammock we awoke to the pitter-patter or rain on our tarps. Looks like the forecast was right and we will be walking in rain today. We ate a quick breakfast and outfitted the rain gear before hitting the trail. It was 5 miles to the first shelter and we had no shortage of high winds blowing sideways rain up the ridges. We knocked out the first 5 by 10:00 and as we pulled up to the shelter we see Dutch standing there soaking wet. Mind you we left him 13 miles back at a shelter by Gatlingburg the night before. He informed us that someone was snoring so badly that eventually he gave up on the prospect of sleep and decided to hike at 3:00 am. He had already walked 13 and was going to do the final 7 with us to the next shelter.
Around 11:30 the skies cleared and we even had a few minutes of sun gleaming on our faces. Ahhh, soak it up. Then the clouds came back and we knocked out some mindless hiking to the shelter. When you get to the shelter at 2:00 pm you either sit around or you eat and so we ate. First a peanut butter and trail mix sandwich. Then a pot of chili which was fantastic this time due to the use of a measuring cup and the adequate amount of water. I devoured a 4 person portion of that and decided that I should wait until at least 5 to eat my second dinner. So, we sat around and debated the weather for the next couple of days and how far we may walk and what foods are worth their weight. Ramen did not make the list. These are the same subjects that one discusses on a regular basis.
5:00 and it’s time to eat. I was about to make some butter noodles when Derek enticed me with a half portion of rice and lentils tossed in a tortilla. The concept of eating a hot meal and not having to cook is inconceivable. I’m in. Somehow I am still hungry, but I decide to lay down anyways and do a few crosswords. I say a few because apparently I am incapable of finishing one of my “easy” crosswords without Charlotte. Sorry Char but you are going to get a book back full of half finished puzzles. Just as I was laying here contemplating the possibility of going to sleep at 7:00 pm Sparkplug came into the shelter after hiking 24 miles. I had asked her to grab me some reces peanut butter cups if she saw them while she was in town and boy did she come through. Remember it’s the little things. The sun is going down and it is officially ok to lay one’s head to rest now.
4-19-11 Part Two: Pine Tunnel
Double Spring Gap to Peck’s Corner Shelter: 21.2 miles
Today was a day of accomplishments. We climbed the tallest mountain on the AT, hit the 200 mile mark, dropped under 2,000 miles left, hiked our first 20 mile day and I ate my last oatmeal cream pie. We got to camp as the sun was falling and ate dinner in the dark. I am spent. And yet somehow today was probably my favorite day yet. I am going to warn you that I am going to get pretty descriptive here and possibly corny, but I want to being you guys in on the trail. So here it goes.
After leaving Clingman’s Dome we began a grueling 8 mile descent down the mountain. The trail closed in and the windy path took us through a pine forest for the better half of the day. The pine trees were lining the path as we made our way down and only every now and then would you get some beaming light shinning through. There were points when there was a foot bridge made out of fallen logs that would take you over muddy areas. Then there were other points where you could see that the trees were once in the path and now instead you have a path of tree stump stepping stones. (cool picture to follow when I get enough service). The smell and aura of the pines takes me right back to the northern Michigan summers that I have come to love and yearn for.
So we walked through the pines and eventually hit newfound gap where there were about 100 tourists and a forest highway taking people into the tourist trap know as Gatlingburg. I’ve been there and had no urge to go back there no matter how much delicious food awaited me. We hit the bathrooms and found it somewhat strange that at such a urban hot spot that there were no sinks in the there. Hmmm. Anyways, we only had 4 miles left to the shelter and as we walked we all decided that our feet felt good and we would press on to the next one which was another 8 miles. As we walked along the ridges we came to charlies bunion and boy does he have a big one. It was a large rock outcropping that you can climb on revealing endless views of the mountains. After a long break we followed the ridge lines as the sun taunted us over the horizon. 7:00 pm and we see the shelter. It’s full, but we don’t care cause this will give us an opportunity to sleep in our comfy hammocks or as some people like to refer to as bear burritos. There is supposed to be a storm tomorrow, but right now I am relaxing as the wind blows in the distance.
4-19-11 Part One: Clingman’s Dome
Just a quick post from the highest point on the AT. I hope the pic goes through. Enjoy!
Northbound By Foot 